Tile Installation FAQ

Call us at (830) 452-0678 or use the contact form on this site. We schedule a site visit to measure the space, look at the substrate, and discuss the tile you have in mind. We provide a written estimate after the visit. There is no charge for the estimate.

It helps to know the approximate square footage of the space, what is currently on the floor or wall, and whether you have already chosen a tile or are still deciding. If you have photos of the space, those are useful too. You do not need to have everything figured out before reaching out — the site visit is partly to help you think through the options.

Yes. The work area needs to be clear before we start demolition or installation. Appliances like refrigerators and stoves typically need to be pulled out as well. We can help move smaller items on the day of the job, but large furniture should be relocated before we arrive. We will confirm the scope of clearing during the estimate walkthrough.

Smaller tiles in the 4x4 or 6x6 inch range were traditionally recommended for small bathrooms, but large-format tiles (12x24 or larger) with fewer grout lines can actually make a small space feel more open. The key is layout direction. Running large tiles on the diagonal or in the same direction as the longest wall can visually extend the space. We can show you layout options during the estimate.

Rectified tile has been mechanically cut to precise, consistent dimensions after firing. This allows for very tight grout joints (as narrow as 1/16 inch) but requires a flatter substrate — typically within 1/8 inch over 10 feet. Non-rectified tile has slightly varied edges from the kiln process and is usually set with wider joints to accommodate the variation. Rectified tile is not harder to install if the substrate is properly prepared, but the prep work is less forgiving.

Floor tile on a wall is usually fine. Wall tile on a floor is often not — wall tiles are typically thinner and have a higher water absorption rate, and they may not be rated for foot traffic. Always check the PEI (Porcelain Enamel Institute) wear rating on a tile before using it on a floor. A PEI rating of 3 or higher is generally suitable for residential floors. We will flag any material concerns during the estimate.

Typically 48 to 72 hours after grouting is complete. The mortar needs time to cure before the grout goes in, and the grout needs time to cure before water exposure. Using a shower too early can cause grout to crack or discolor. We will give you a specific timeline based on the products used on your job. In San Antonio's heat, cure times can sometimes be shorter, but we err on the conservative side.

Cracking usually traces back to one of four causes: a subfloor that flexes under load, a hollow spot under the tile where mortar coverage was insufficient, movement at a control joint that was not properly handled, or a substrate that was not flat enough. Tiles themselves rarely crack from normal use when the installation is done correctly. This is why substrate preparation and mortar coverage are the parts of the job we spend the most time on.

Use a pH-neutral cleaner for routine cleaning. Avoid vinegar, bleach, or abrasive scrubbers on polished tile or colored grout — acids etch polished surfaces and bleach strips color from grout over time. For stubborn grout stains, an oxygen-based cleaner works without damaging the grout sealer. We apply a penetrating sealer to all grout at the end of the job. Reapplying sealer every year or two in wet areas keeps the grout easier to clean.